Monday, December 3, 2012

What Is a Reverse Mortgage?


What Is a Reverse Mortgage?
Simply put, these specialty mortgages are equity loans created to produce income for homeowners without a monthly payment.
If a reverse mortgage sounds like monthly income versus traditional mortgage payments normally required from a borrower, you heard correctly. What this means is that certain homeowners can create income by tapping into equity built up over the years.

Know Your Rights if Your Loan is Sold


Know Your Rights if Your Loan is Sold
Don’t panic, having a loan sold is common
By Shirley J. Hagler
The lender’s letter begins, “We’re writing to inform you that your mortgage loan has been sold.” Your first thoughts are why did this happen and what does it mean?
Don’t panic. “Selling the loan” typically means selling the servicing rights to the loan. And as a home owner and mortgagor, it merely means that you’ll be making your payments to another company. It may not ever happen to your loan; yet again, it might happen several times during the life of your loan. But if it does, it’s important to know that you have specific rights as a mortgage consumer.
When you first applied for the mortgage, the lender gave you information about the likelihood of your loan being sold to another investor. This figure was expressed as a percentage, i.e. “greater than 50%.” These guidelines are federally mandated including the fact that once your loan is sold, you must hear from both the lender saying “goodbye” and the one saying “hello” to your mortgage. Both investor/lenders must provide you with the following information in a timely manner:
What the “Goodbye” lender must provide
At least fifteen days before the date your next payment is due, the lender selling your loan must notify you in writing, provide you (on their letterhead stationery) the name of the new company, its full address, a phone number (800# preferred), and the name of a contact person who can answer your questions.
What the “Hello” lender must provide
The company purchasing your loan must send you the same information in the same time frame, complete with the name of a real person (not a voice mail system) that you can speak to if you have questions.
The federal government mandated these guidelines several years ago when bogus mortgage scams had unwitting consumers re-routing their monthly payments to blind post office boxes when, in fact, their loans had never been sold. Some of the buyers found out too late—when they received loan delinquency notices from the true, original servicers of their loans!
That’s why if you do not receive both the “goodbye” and “hello” letters, contact your current mortgage servicer for clarification. Federal guidelines prohibit your loan from being termed “delinquent” for a period of sixty days during the transfer of servicing. You have time to check out the facts before making any change, and don’t let anyone convince you of the contrary!
If you’d like more information, an excellent free booklet is available entitled “When Your Loan is Transferred to Another Lender.” You can request it from the Mortgage Bankers Association of America, 1125 Fifteenth St., NW., Washington, DC 20005.

Understanding Escrow Accounts


Understanding Escrow Accounts
Data Provided By Bankrate
Convenience is the primary benefit of these accounts
At closing, you will be required to deposit real estate taxes and insurance premiums into an escrow account (sometimes called an impound account). An escrow account ensures that the taxes and insurance will be paid, and on time. This protects the lender from tax liens and uninsured losses that the borrower can’t repay.
The federal Real Estate Settlement Act limits the amount lenders can require in escrow to a maximum of two months’ payments. Escrow assessments and adjustments are generally made annually.
How escrow accounts are managed
The amount in the escrow account varies during the year due to tax assessments and insurance premium adjustments. The lender typically will cover any shortfalls until it can adjust your monthly payment to make up for tax hikes and premium increases. Your monthly mortgage payment will fluctuate from year to year, even on long-term, fixed-rate loans.
Can I avoid escrow?
Yes. Some lenders allow you to pay your own property taxes and home insurance premiums, especially if your loan-to-value ratio is below 80 percent. But don’t be surprised if the lender boosts your interest rate to compensate for the additional risk they’re assuming.
Once an escrow requirement is in place, it can be difficult to persuade a lender to cancel it. If your loan is sold, as is common, and there is nothing in the lending agreement that provides for cancellation of the escrow requirement, you’ll have to live with the decision of your new mortgage servicer.

Underwriting


Underwriting
Data Provided By Bankrate
This is where the real approval process begins
Once your loan has been approved, the clock starts ticking to closing day. Much remains to be done during those few weeks, and most of it occurs behind the scenes.
You can help speed the process by:
  • Providing complete documentation with your application.
  • Responding promptly to your lender’s request for more information.
  • Calling your lender and real estate agent to check on your loan application status.
  • Helping contact employers and others who may need to provide documentation.
  • Keeping records of your conversations with your lender.
Here’s what’s happening while you wait:
Underwriting verification
Your lender’s team of underwriters springs into action, verifying the information on your application and supporting documents. They will call your employer, for instance, to verify that you work in the job and at the salary stated on your application. The amount of verification involved depends on how risky your lender perceives you to be.
Appraisal
Your lender will require an independent appraisal of the property prior to closing, the outcome of which could affect the rate and terms of your mortgage. The work will be done by a licensed appraiser, who will arrive at an expert’s estimated value of the property based on physical inspection and a sampling of comparables or “comps” — prices paid for comparable properties that have recently sold in the neighborhood. Cost of an appraisal typically runs between $300 and $500.
Title search and title insurance
Your lender doesn’t want to lend money against a house that may have claims or other encumbrances upon it. That’s why a title company performs a title search.
The title company will go to the county courthouse and research the history of the property, looking for encumbrances such as mortgages, claims, liens, easement rights, zoning ordinances, pending legal action, unpaid taxes and restrictive covenants. The title insurer then issues a policy that guarantees the accuracy of the work. Your lender will require a title policy that protects the lender. In some cases two policies are issued, one to protect the lender and one to protect the property owner.
Flood certification
Lenders also want to know whether the property you’re buying is in a flood-prone area. They will hire a vendor to analyze your property and neighboring sites to determine if it’s in a flood zone; their report is called a flood certification. If the answer is yes, you’ll be required to buy flood insurance because most standard homeowners’ policies don’t cover damage from rising water.
Survey
Some lenders also will require that a home’s property lines be verified by a professional survey.

Understanding the Closing Process


Understanding the Closing Process
Data Provided By Bankrate
Knowing what to expect brings peace of mind
On closing day, all parties will sign the papers officially sealing the deal and ownership of the property will be transferred to you. It’s your opportunity to make any last-minute changes to the transaction.
The day before closing, be sure to gather all the paperwork you have received throughout the home-buying process: good-faith estimate, contract, proof of title search and insurance if necessary, flood certification, proof of homeowners insurance and mortgage insurance, home appraisal and inspection reports. You might need to refer to these documents at closing.
Most home-sale contracts entitle you to a walk-through inspection of the property 24 hours before closing. This is to ensure that the seller has vacated the property and left it in the condition specified in the sales contract.
If there are any major problems, you can ask to delay the closing or request that the seller deposit money into an escrow account to cover the necessary repairs.
At closing, your participation will be twofold:
  • Sign legal documents. This falls into two categories: the agreement between you and your lender regarding the terms and conditions of the mortgage and the agreement between you and the seller transferring ownership of the property. Be sure to read all documents carefully before signing them, and do not sign forms with blank lines or spaces.
  • Pay closing costs and escrow items. Borrowers handle the numerous fees associated with obtaining a mortgage and transferring property ownership in one of two ways: they either roll them into the principal balance of the new loan or agree to pay higher interest rates and have their lenders foot the bill. Some buyers may have to pay these out-of-pocket fees.
Present at closing
Closing procedures vary from state to state (and even county to county), but the following parties will generally be present at the closing or settlement meeting:
Present at closing
  • Closing agent, who might work for the lender or the title company.
  • Attorney: The closing agent might be an attorney representing you or the lender. Both sides may have attorneys. It’s always a good idea to have an attorney present who represents you and only you.
  • Title company representative, to provide written evidence of the ownership of the property.
  • Home seller.
  • The seller’s real estate agent.
  • You, also known as the mortgagor.
  • The lender, also known as the mortgagee.
The closing agent conducts the settlement meeting and makes sure that all documents are signed and recorded and that closing fees and escrow payments are paid and properly distributed.
Closing documents
You will receive the following important documents:
Closing documents
HUD-1 settlement statement: A detailed list of all costs related to the sale of the home. It is similar to the good-faith estimate you got weeks earlier, but the HUD-1 is not an estimate; it is a precise record of the settlement costs. Both you and the seller sign it. Compare the HUD-1 statement against the good-faith estimate to see if the actual closing costs differ significantly. By law, you have the right to review the HUD-1 24 hours before closing. Do so. Clear up any mistakes and resolve problems.
Final TILA statement: You received the first version of this statement after applying for your mortgage. This final version outlines the cost of your loan and APR and takes into account any modifications made to your rate and points between application and closing. Make sure that everything is in order.
Mortgage note: This document states your promise to repay the mortgage. It indicates the amount and terms of the loan, and what the lender can do if you fail to make payments.
Mortgage or deed of trust: This document secures the note and gives your lender a claim against the home if you fail to live up to the terms of the mortgage note.
Certificate of occupancy: If you are buying a newly constructed house, you need this legal document to move in.
Once you’ve reviewed and signed all closing documents, the house keys are yours and you will have successfully bought your new home!

Mortgage Free … How Can That Be? Part 1


Mortgage Free … How Can That Be? Part 1
by Heather Koerner
My friends, Lindsay and Lindsey (yes, they know), got quite a gift from God a few months ago. Twin baby girls. The girls are precious, and pretty rare — only 2 percent of U.S. births are multiples.
A few months later, the couple gave themselves another gift and placed themselves in another select group. They paid off their mortgage — a feat that, according to the U.S. Census, only 6.2 percent of homeowners in their age bracket (25-34) have accomplished.
Not only is Lindsay and Lindsey’s accomplishment rare, but it’s becoming more and more counter culture.
Check just about any secular financial resource and you’ll find that paying off a mortgage — which used to be the ultimate fulfillment of the American dream — has plummeted in popularity.
“These days, there’s rarely any reason to rush to pay off the mortgage,” says Kiplinger.
“Pay Off the House? Not So Fast!” says Business Week.
“There’s no reason why people in their 20s or 30s or even 40s should pay off their mortgage if they’re not planning to retire before 65,” says USA Today.
And, yet, many in the Christian financial community, Mary Hunt, Dave Ramsey and Crown Financial Ministries included, encourage Christians to make mortgage repayment a priority.
Why the difference?
Is there something that the Christians just don’t get about personal finances? Or is it the other way around? Are the Christians just a little too uptight about debt? Or is it that the world isn’t uptight enough?
Recently my husband and I have been taking a closer look at our mortgage to find out.
The World’s View
My summation of most secular financial experts is this: You can get a better return on your money somewhere other than paying off your mortgage.
Here’s how a writer put in on CNN Money: “If you’re still working … hold off using any extra cash to pay off your mortgage until you explore other investments. If you’ve got time on your side, then you’ll likely do better in stocks or mutual funds.”
That’s pretty much it: Your money will “make” you more money if you place it into retirement accounts, college savings accounts or investment accounts, not your mortgage.
So how is a Christian to respond to that? We know that God wants us to be prudent, wise and good stewards. If one way makes more money than the other, isn’t the answer obvious? Not necessarily.
For me, there were two important biblical principles that needed to be addressed.
James 4:13
I’ve always pretty much taken it for granted that even if the stock market wasn’t a sure thing, it was as close as you could get to one. Especially if you invested for the “long haul.” But I’ve been rethinking that.
Yes, historically, the stock market has done well — averaging a 10.4 percent gain since 1926. Sounds good, huh? After all, that’s certainly more than the 6 or 7 percent I’m paying out in my mortgage.
But it’s not as simple as that. The stock market is about timing — when you get in and when you get out can have a tremendous effect on your returns. Then, there’s the fees. Mutual fund managers have to be paid. So do stock brokers. These fees can eat seriously into your profits.
Does that mean I’m anti-stock market now? Certainly not. I’m in, baby! But I’m in with caution. As Gillette Edmunds, the author of Retire on the House, said: “The problem is that mortgage interest is a sure thing and the investment isn’t. You could lose everything you invested and still have to pay the mortgage.”
This is where James 4:13 has really shaped my thinking. I don’t know what is going to happen tomorrow, but I have made my mortgage obligation today. God takes my debt seriously, and so should I.
Instead of taking an “either/or” approach to investing and our mortgage, my husband and I have taken a “both/and” approach. That is, we consider both a priority. We invest in his 401(k) (mainly because of the employer match), but consider paying off our mortgage an important part of our investment strategy as well.
After all, why hope that I will earn 8 percent in the market to cover my future mortgage payments? Why not just pay it off and make my 6 percent today?
But what about losing my tax deduction for mortgage interest? As Crown Ministries points out: Why would I pay $1,000 in interest to the mortgage company just to get $360 back from the government? I’m still out $640. Better to pay off the mortgage, pay the $360 and get to keep my $640.
Proverbs 22:7
But what if I were guaranteed a better return on my investing than on my mortgage? Would I still want to pay off my mortgage? I think the answer is still yes.
This hit me the other day when I was reading the Washington Post. The article was on “Mortgage Moms” — the new buzz demographic for political elections.
According to the article, “mortgage moms” are voters “whose sense of well-being is freighted with anxiety about their families’ financial squeeze.” What financial squeeze?
The answer: their debt. According to The Post, the amount of mortgage debt in America has more than doubled since 2000, to nearly $9 trillion. This year, about $1 trillion of that debt will readjust to a higher interest rate for the first time — leaving those moms and dads with even higher mortgage payments.
Here was the clincher line: “Democrats are betting that this factor is strong enough to trump security or cultural values issues.” Unfortunately, I think they’re right. And I think this is part of what God is trying to warn us about in Proverbs 22:7.
You are a slave to your lender in a literal sense — you’re working and the money goes to him. But you’re a slave in another sense. Your will is no longer your own. You may have priorities — family, faith, values — but those priorities must take a back seat to your overriding concern: paying back what you owe.
In America, we’ve convinced ourselves that there is “good debt” and “bad debt” and that mortgages fall securely into the good column. But I think we also need to consider the size of the debt.
Which will cause you more stress? A $1,000 loan you took out for a TV (definitely bad debt — don’t do it!) or a $250,000 mortgage on your house? Which may cause you to change your priorities? To work when you should be worshipping? To neglect God’s call on your life?
Sometimes debt is just debt. And it can make us a slave to it.
But the opposite of slavery, of course, is freedom — which is exactly the word Lindsey and Lindsay use to describe how they feel now that they are mortgage-free.
“I could quit my job tomorrow and go work at Subway and still support my family,” Lindsay laughs. “There’s such freedom in that.”
“It does not take very much money to live if you are not paying out the majority of your income for housing,” agrees Carolyn J. White in her book, Debt No More.
So, my husband and I are making the commitment to pay off our mortgage early. Not as early as Lindsey and Lindsay, who are my current heroes, but sooner than the 30-year term. How are we going to do it? How did the Lindseys do it? How can you do it or, if you don’t have a mortgage yet, how can you start preparing for it? That’s the topic for next month.

Mortgage Free … How Can That Be? Part 2


Mortgage Free … How Can That Be? Part 2
by Heather Koerner
The idea of being “mortgage free,” of owning our homes outright, can seem as foreign to many of us as the idea that we would walk on the moon — tomorrow.
It’s impossible. It’s simply not going to happen. These days, paying off the mortgage is uncommon, not thought of and, often, downright discouraged. But, in the past few years, I’ve become more and more of a fan of paying off my mortgage.
I remember four years ago, just as my husband and I were starting our mortgage, that my in-laws paid off their own. In celebration, we bought them a giant chocolate chip cookie. Both of my husband’s parents talked to us about the incredible relief and confidence it gave them to pay off their mortgage. Seeing that spark in their step made a big impact on us.
I’ve also seen the opposite. I’ve seen friends whose choices about career, family and tithing were dictated by their mortgage payments, not their wishes. Last year, mortgage defaults in America were up 42 percent nationwide. It seems that our appetite for debt may finally be catching up with us.
For me, it’s time to take responsibility for that debt and get rid of it.
So, how do you retire the mortgage?
There are three ways, really. One is what Lindsay and Lindsey, my good friends, did. One is what I’m doing. And one I’ve really only seen on television.
Way #1: The All-Out Assault
I mentioned my friends Lindsay and Lindsey in my last article and how they are my current heroes. They are parents of three and, before the age of 30, have paid off their mortgage.
How did they do it? I can only describe it one way: an all-out assault.
As male Lindsay explains it, “Every time I got a bonus, or we got extra money, it went to the house.”
If you won $1,000 off a radio station giveaway, what would you do? Buy a new plasma screen or a trip or a shopping spree? After all, I would be tempted to think, what could $1,000 really do toward my huge mortgage? But Lindsay did win — and took that $1,000 straight to the mortgage, as he did any extra money that came their way.
“It was funny,” female Lindsey remembers. “He would come home after making an additional payment and say, ‘Well, honey, we own the bathroom now.’”
The couple kept a note on the refrigerator telling how much debt they owed. As they paid off their mortgage piece by piece, the old number would get crossed off to make way for the new, lower number. “I saw that, hey, maybe we could really do this after all,” she remembers.
And do it they did. To be sure, they made some sacrifices. And, they are quick to point out, they never let their obligation to give to God and others take a backseat to their plan. But their all-out assault worked like a charm. They have a security now that few of us can claim.
“I think it gives our marriage a security too,” Lindsay says. “After all, when you figure that most couples fight about money, there’s not very much left for us to fight about now.” Lindsay is more right than he knows. According to an article by Crown Financial Ministries, over 50 percent of divorced couples between the ages of 20 and 30 said that financial problems were the primary cause of their divorces.
Way #2: Slow and Steady
Rather than the all-out assault, though, my husband and I have chosen the slow and steady.
I agree wholeheartedly with financial author David Bach’s statement, “I’m fine with the 30-year mortgage, but I don’t want you to pay for it over 30 years.” Instead, both Bach and financial author Mary Hunt recommend a bi-weekly mortgage payment plan.
That is, instead of making a payment once a month (ending up with 12 payments per year), you make half a payment every two weeks (that’s 26 half payments a year, or 13 payments a year). That’s one extra payment a year — which, since all the year’s interest is already paid, goes entirely toward paying off your mortgage.
You can either pay your mortgage company to set this kind of plan up for you (which David Bach estimates will cost you around $300 to set up and then $5 a month) or set it up yourself.
Bach says to let the company do it for you. “Over the life time of your mortgage, you would spend $1,200 on this system, but you would save $119,000 (on a $250,000 home),” he says. You can do it yourself, Bach admits, “but let’s be honest, most people don’t.”
“A complete waste of money,” Mary Hunt disagrees in her book, Debt-Proof Living. Instead, Hunt recommends you do it yourself. Just divide your monthly mortgage payment by twelve and add that onto your original monthly payment. If you’re not disciplined enough to write that extra check each month, have your bank make the payment automatic.
We took Mary’s way but we still weren’t satisfied. Turns out that an extra payment a year still only took six years off our 30-year loan (you can figure your own mortgage prepayment numbers with mortgage calculator such as the one provided by the Motley Fool). That left 24 years. Better, but not what we wanted.
Our goal is to have our mortgage paid off by the time our eldest child graduates from high school. That gives us 12 years. So, each year as our salaries have risen, we have added onto our additional payment.
Right now, we’re 18 years and 8 months until pay-off. We still have 6 more years to cut off, but feel confident that with discipline we can do it. Let’s call it slow and steady with a bit of an attitude.
Way #3: Cash on the Barrel
Then there’s the way that I’ve only seen on television and, truthfully, it wasn’t even an American who did it.
I was watching an episode of House Hunters International on HGTV and saw a couple searching for a new home. I wasn’t paying that much attention until I heard the announcer tell how the couple had a strict budget because they were paying cash for their new place.
Come again? My ears perked up. Evidently, the man had been living at home for years in order to save up enough money for his own home because, as the announcer put it, “mortgages are much more rare in Europe than in America.”
I don’t know if what the announcer said was true or not, but it struck such a chord against our “have to have it now” American perspective, that I was amazed. The homes the couple were looking at were well into the six figures and the fact that he would wait and save that much money was impressive.
On Boundless, we’ve often warned against the extension of adolescence — with singles living with their parents merely to stave off responsibility or to allow them to spend their money on toys, not rent. But this man seemed to strike me much differently. It seemed that he had lived with his parents to enable responsibility, not avoid it.
Would this work on this side of the Atlantic? I don’t know. Our cultures are different. I would hope that any adult living with his family would contribute a good amount to cover his own expenses and assist his parents with theirs. There would certainly have to be pre-discussed boundaries and expectations. But it was an interesting idea.
The Most Important Thing
But whichever way you choose, there is one decision that will make the biggest impact on whether you pay off your mortgage or not: How big a mortgage you take out.
As we’ve discussed before, the mortgage you qualify for will most likely be much more than a comfortable budget can maintain — and is based on a model which does not leave any room in the budget for tithing. If you choose to take out the full amount, or even an amount close to it, you may be starting out your financial life in financial crisis.
So, before taking on a mortgage, give some serious thought to your budget and your goals. If you are married, do you want your future children in day care? If not, then only base your mortgage on one of your incomes. Do you want to pay off your mortgage early? Then choose a payment that leaves room in your budget for extra principal payments. Dave Ramsey has a great article called “How Much House Can You Afford?” You may find that after crunching the numbers, you can afford much less of a house than you were planning. Or you may find that you really can’t afford one yet at all. That may seem disheartening, but it’s a lot less than realizing it only after your mortgage has begun.

Fixed Rate vs. Adjustable Rate Mortgage


Fixed Rate vs. Adjustable Rate Mortgage
Which is the better mortgage option for you: fixed or adjustable?
The low initial cost of adjustable-rate mortgages, or ARMs, can be very tempting to home buyers, yet they carry a degree of uncertainty.
Fixed-rate mortgages offer rate and payment security, but they can be more expensive.
Here are some pros and cons of ARMs and their fixed-rate brethren.
Adjustable-rate mortgages
Advantages
•Feature lower rates and payments early on in the loan term. Because lenders can use the lower payment when qualifying borrowers, people can buy larger homes than they otherwise could buy.
•Allow borrowers to take advantage of falling rates without refinancing. Instead of having to pay a whole new set of closing costs and fees, ARM borrowers just sit back and watch the rates — and their monthly payments — fall.
•Help borrowers save and invest more money. Someone who has a payment that’s $100 less with an ARM can save that money and earn more off it in a higher-yielding investment.
•Offer a cheap way for borrowers who don’t plan on living in one place for very long to buy a house.
Disadvantages
•Rates and payments can rise significantly over the life of the loan. A 6 percent ARM can end up at 11 percent in just three years if rates rise sharply.
•The first adjustment can be a doozy because some annual caps don’t apply to the initial change. Someone with an annual cap of 2 percent and a lifetime cap of 6 percent could theoretically see the rate shoot from 6 percent to 12 percent a year& after closing if rates in the overall economy skyrocket.
•ARMs are difficult to understand. Lenders have much more flexibility when determining margins, caps, adjustment indexes and other things, so unsophisticated borrowers can easily get confused or trapped by shady mortgage companies.
•On certain ARMs, called negative amortization loans, borrowers can end up owing more money than they did at closing. That’s because the payments on these loans are set so low (to make the loans even more affordable) that they cover only part of the interest due. The remainder gets rolled into the principal balance.
Fixed-rate mortgages
Advantages
•Rates and payments remain constant. There won’t be any surprises even if inflation surges out of control and mortgage rates head to 20 percent.
•Stability makes budgeting easier. People can manage their money with more certainty because their housing outlays don’t change.
•Simple to understand, so they’re good for first-time buyers who wouldn’t know a 7/1 ARM with 2/6 caps if it hit them over the head.
Disdvantages
•To take advantage of falling rates, fixed-rate mortgage holders have to refinance. That means a few thousand dollars in closing costs, another trip to the title company’s office and several hours spent digging up tax forms, bank statements, etc.
•Can be too expensive for some borrowers, especially in high-rate environments, because there is no early-on payment and rate break.
•Are virtually identical from lender to lender. While lenders keep many ARMs on their books, most financial institutions sell their fixed-rate mortgages on the secondary market. As a result, ARMs can be customized for individual borrowers, while most fixed-rate mortgages can’t.
All of these things should factor into your decision between a fixed-rate mortgage and an adjustable. But there are other important questions to answer when deciding which loan is better for you:
1. How long do you plan on staying in the home?
If you’re only going to be living in the house a few years, it would make sense to take the lower-rate ARM, especially if you can get a reasonably priced 3/1 or 5/1. Your payment and rate will be low and you can build up more savings for a bigger home down the road. Plus, you’ll never be exposed to huge rate adjustments because you’ll be moving before the adjustable rate period begins.
2. How frequently does the ARM adjust, and when is the adjustment made?
After the initial fixed period, most ARMs adjust every year on the anniversary of the mortgage. The new rate is actually set about 45 days before the anniversary, based on the specified index. But some adjust as frequently as every month. If that’s too much volatility for you, go with a fixed-rate mortgage.
3. What’s the interest rate environment like?
When rates are relatively high, ARMs make sense because their lower initial rates allow borrowers to still reap the benefits of homeownership. Rates could fall even further, meaning borrowers will have a decent chance of getting lower payments even if they don’t refinance. When rates are relatively low, however, fixed-rate mortgages make more sense. After all, 7 percent is a great rate to borrow money at for 30 years.
4. Could you still afford your monthly payment if interest rates rise significantly?
On a $150,000, one-year adjustable-rate mortgage with 2/6 caps, your 5.75 percent ARM could end up at 11.75 percent, with the monthly payment shooting up as well.
Now, let’s compare this worst-case ARM scenario to a fixed-rate mortgage:
ARM vs. fixed mortgage as rates rise
Interest rate during 4 years: ARM: 5.75% to 11.75%, $57,036 (total payments)
Fixed rate: 7.75%, $51,600 (total payments)
Savings with fixed-rate mortgage over 4 years: $5,436.
How adjustable rates can rise
Year of ARM Rate, monthly payment
First year: 5.75%, $875
Second year: 7.75%, $1,075
Third year: 9.75%, $1,289
Fourth year (6% lifetime cap): 11.75%, $1,514 ($639 more than first year)
In the above case, the fixed-rate mortgage costs less than the worst-case ARM scenario. Experts say when fixed mortgage rates are low, they tend to be a better deal than an ARM, even if you only plan to stay in the house for a few years.

Costs Associated with a Home Loan


Costs Associated with a Home Loan
Sponsored By Move
A look at what goes into the cost of a loan
By John Adams
We will take a look at some of the costs you can expect to pay with any new home loan. With any luck, the builder or seller will agree to pay at least some of these expenses for you. But regardless of who pays them, these costs are part of the price of buying your next home, so let’s take a look. They are closing costs, loan discount points and prepaid items.
Closing costs are the actual expenses that the lender incurs in the origination of a new home loan. Some of the costs are related to your loan application, such as the expense of newly updated credit reports on all applicants. Other fees are related to the house itself, such as the appraisal of the property. Others are payment to the lenderfor processing your application, such as the loan origination fee. All these costs are lumped into a broad category called “closing costs.” Unless the seller offers to pay them for you, this area of expenses is charged to the buyer, and often runs between 2 and 3 percent of the amount being borrowed. Because different states have different fees and taxes that are a part of these costs, it’s impossible to generalize nationwide. So it’s important that you talk with a reputable lender ahead of time about what costs you can expect to pay in your part of the country.
Loan discount points are, in essence, a form of prepaid interest. One discount point is exactly equal to one percent of the amount being borrowed. It is paid in cash at closing to the lender as a form of interest. Discount points have the effect of lowering the stated interest rate you will pay on the loan you obtain. For example, a lender might offer you a 30 year fixed rate loan at 8% with zero points or the same loan at 7.5% with 2 discount points. Because the points are considered interest, the yield to the lender is approximately the same. So why, you are asking, would I want to pay points? You probably won’t, but sometimes new home builders or employers will offer to pay up to a certain number of points as an incentive, and I want to make sure you get everything that’s coming to you.
Last, there is the issue of prepaid items. Most home lenders want you to set up what is called and “escrow” account. This is nothing more than a savings account that the lender holds. Every month you will, in addition to your regular loan payment, deposit a sum for property taxes and for home owners insurance into this account. And when the next bill comes due for taxes or insurance, your lender will make the payment for you. The reason that all this matters today is that, on the day of your purchase, you will be required to set up an escrow account with about 9 months worth of taxes and about 2 months worth of insurance payments. In addition, you will have to pay for the first year’s insurance policy in full. These costs are called prepaid items, and you must pay for them yourself.
Because regulations and customs vary from state to state, the amount you need at settlement may be more or less than the amounts I have discussed here. Talk to a reputable lender to get an accurate estimate of how much you will need to buy your next home.

Avoiding Mortgage Red Flags


Avoiding Mortgage Red Flags
Sponsored By Move
Six steps to help keep your financial foundation from crumbling
By Diane Benson Harrington
While buying a new home can be exciting, don’t let the enthusiasm for new digs lead down the path to financial ruin. Here are six things to avoid when securing your home financing:
1. Don’t put the house before the mortgage
“Don’t go out and look for a home, fall in love with one, and then go to lender and say, ‘How am I going to finance this purchase?’ Figure out what you can afford, shop for a mortgage and get prequalified, and then choose a home. That way, you’re less likely to commit to something you really can’t afford,” says Mike Fratantoni, senior economist with the Mortgage Bankers Association of America.
2. Don’t rely on the lender’s assessment of your finances
Don’t be deluded by the “financial expert” across the desk into believing you can afford more house than you think you can. A lender will know a lot about you before the process is over, but they have no way of knowing all those family finance idiosyncrasies.
“Sit down and draw up your family budget first: Here’s what we think we’d be comfortable with now, and with how that payment can vary over time,” Fratantoni says. “Then the lender can say yes or no as to whether you can qualify for that payment.”
If you discover after the fact that the monthly payments are more than you can handle, you could face a huge loss when you have to sell that home quickly. “Worse, you could be forced into foreclosure or bankruptcy,” notes Robert Skrob, executive director of the National Association of Responsible Loan Officers. “It is much better to be patient, buy a home you can comfortably afford, make payments, build equity and then transition into a larger home later.”
3. Don’t choose a mortgage on interest rates alone
Skrob says some mortgage advertisements promise low rates that involve a 30-year mortgage coupled with an accelerated payment plan.
“You may decide you like that option, but you cannot directly compare the interest rate on that mortgage to other opportunities. This loan could cost more than other mortgages with seemingly higher interest rates,” he says.
Skrob points out that literally hundreds of loan options are available. A variety of hybrid options on the market mean 30-year fixed and traditional adjustable rate mortgages (ARMs) are no longer the only ways to go. “Every borrower has a different financial situation and financial goal. Consult with a loan officer who can tailor a program to meet your individual needs instead of focusing exclusively on rates and points. You may likely find a better product than the one you were shopping for,” he says.
4. Don’t shop less for your mortgage than you do for your house
You’ll have both for the same amount of time, so it’s wise to give them equal weight.
“We think buyers – particularly first-time buyers – are not shopping enough for mortgages, that they are relying too much on a Realtor or a broker,” Fratantoni says. “Shop on your own and compare offers across different lenders.” Even though a mortgage broker, much like an independent insurance agent, can offer your mortgage options from a variety of lenders, the Mortgage Bankers Association believes it’s wise to check in with more than one broker, just as you would more than one lender.
Skrob cautions buyers to do as much homework on their own as possible – comparing rates, points, styles of loan – before actually applying for a mortgage and handing over personal details like your social security number. In a perfect world, you want to avoid having several lenders pulling your credit report, he says. “Over the years, the credit reporting agencies have determined that a borrower who seeks credit from many different lenders is riskier than others. Therefore, they may decrease your credit score each time a lender pulls your credit report,” he says. “A lower score decreases your likelihood of getting the best rate and terms.”
Fratantoni doesn’t believe those credit checks look overly negative to a potential borrower, but it doesn’t hurt to do as much groundwork as you can and narrow your choices before letting lenders check your credit.
5. Don’t be lured by low initial payments
Some ARMs and hybrid loans can bring even the most expensive of homes within your immediate reach. But once the initial term is over – usually in anywhere from one to seven years – the interest rate adjusts and your monthly payment may skyrocket.
Sure, you can refinance at that time, or just before the initial term expires, but there’s no guarantee the mortgage rates then will be as good as the one you have now, or that the same loan programs will be available.
“You absolutely need to understand how the loan is going to change over time and what you’re comfortable with. Ask specifically, ‘If interest rates go up, what’s my payment going to be?’” Fratantoni suggests.
6. Don’t even dream of fudging financials .
Some appealing loan programs promise better rates if you have a certain income or if you’re looking at a particular type of home (historic, one in a neighborhood that’s being turned from bad to good, etc.). But don’t be tempted to tweak your numbers or circumstances to help you qualify. “Misleading a lender goes beyond just making a mortgage mistake. It’s being fraudulent. You never want to do that,” Fratantoni says.
Skrob says you should run, not walk, from any lender who encourages you to cover up past financial difficulties or stray from the truth.